TAZARA train journey: Dar Es Salaam to Mbeya

All good things come to end they say.

Stone Town is a great place but we cannot stay forever. What we had was a holiday and a chance to get a fleeting glance of how Stone Town evolved from being one of the largest slave trading center into a melting pot of culture owing to its great location in the map and its rich history. 

After a few days, we once again had to pack our bags and hit the road taking a few mementos with us and lots of photos to document the great time we had in the the exotic island. I make it a point to visit museums everytime I go somewhere but this time, unfortunately, I was unable to. The museum was under renovation and was closed to the public.  We also had no time to hit the beaches up north but maybe one day. Who knows. 

We had to go back to Dar Es Salaam, for the next day the train would be waiting to take me back to Mbeya-- that is, if the timetable did not change. Upon arrival at Dar from Zanzibar, we headed straight to the train depot to buy myself a ticket. You know, just to make sure if there would really be a train tomorrow and that I get a seat. I have learned from previous experience!  I bought myself a ticket for the first class coach, meaning I would be sharing a cabin with three other ladies. Unless you are a family travelling together, the TAZARA train does not put together males and females in the same cabin.

We spent another night in Dar Es Salaam with a lovely missionary family. After an easy morning with my friend who decided to stay behind, I started off early in the afternoon. The train was scheduled to leave in the early evening but I was warned of Dar Es Salaam's horrendous traffic so I just had to be sure. Traffic was not as bad that day so I arrived at the depot early which I did not mind.  Early is better.Waited for a bit with the other passengers carrying all sorts of luggage. Most of them traveled from wherever they came from to purchase wholesale goods (mostly textile) at Dar Es Salaam which they would then sell back home at retail prices. 

I was the earliest to arrive in our cabin, so I had dibs on the bottom bunk. Shortly after I got settled, a young Japanese traveler came in and occupied the bunk opposite mine. The top bunks were soon claimed by two Zambian ladies who will be travelling until Kitwe, Zambia. It seems like in our group, I will be the first one to alight.

Our cabin. It has got bunks for four people.

The hallway

After the goods were all packed in the train, the passengers were comfortably ensconced in their bunks, the train blew off its horn and started chugging its way out of Dar Es Salaam.It did not start off exactly on schedule, but it was good enough. Not early enough for me to see animals at the Selous Game Reserve, though. We crossed the park in the dark of the night. To make up for it, the lovely ladies and I shared dinner and a couple of beers and just swapped stories. I still find it amazing that strangers when put together in closed confines would always find something to talk about. We went on for hours; I guess it was past 11 when we decided to turn in for the night but before we did, we had to make sure that the windows are tightly shut. We heard stories about robberies happening in the middle of the night when locals would just reach out through the windows and get whatever they could reach.

Woke up in the morning, to a motionless train. Some technical difficulties which sounded Greek to me. I just spent the time watching the landscape. Once in a while, we would have young children dangling through the windows some of the goods that they are selling--maize in a cob, chips.

A village we passed by...

Another village

And another!

The rest of the trip was uneventful. We passed by Tanzanian rice fields with mountains from a distance. It is not actually that different from what you see in a bus when travelling in the lowlands of the Philippines. Impressive landscape. 

Lush greenery along the way

Rice fields

The train's restaurant

Our Zambian friends got tired of staying inside the cabin and wandered off to the restaurant. Us Asians, we just came to the realization that it was the last day of the year. We had barely enough time to mark it with a photo when I realized that we reached Mbeya. Once again, time to get off and board the bus to the border. Luckily, the bus was right there waiting at the train depot. It is not the one that goes straight to Malawi, it just brings us right at the border where I have to transfer to a different minibus. Another long journey but it's fine. Bus rides are always interesting.

Breakfast on the train. It is unappetizing as it looks. Very dry bread, too salty sausages, lukewarm coffee. I am not really complaining. It is either that or the chips being sold by the locals through the window.

Marking the end of the year.  By New Year's eve, I will be back in the warm embrace of Mama Malawi.

The end of the train journey for me. Two more bus rides to go. I hope to reach Songwe border before it closes at 5. Otherwise, I would have to wait in the morning before I can exit Tanzania.

                                                   

Zanzibar, Tanzania: The Spice Island

"Once you step out of the ferry, your nose gets assailed by the smell of cloves and cardamom." This is one of my friends fond recollection of Zanzibar. He visited the place in the late 70's.

Well, it was not quite the same when we went there--no such kind of smell upon stepping out of the boat-- but Zanzibar is still famed for its spices.

Cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper--name it, they have it. In fact, a visit to Zanzibar is not complete without a purchase of spices to bring back home.

Zanzibar, being a touristy island has tours for everything like the Jozani Forest tour and the Prison Island tour we had earlier. They also have a spice plantation tour, which I again decided to join. I was thinking, I am in the island for a few days only so I might as well see everything. Do what tourists do. See the usual sights and listen to the usual rehearsed explanations. Maybe, when I get to return then I will go explore on my own and go off the beaten track.

Just like the last time, I booked a tour with our hostel. They did all the arrangement and the only thing I had to do was to hop in the minibus that came to pick us up the next day which then brought us to the spice plantation.

Well, it was an ordinary farm. Nothing special except for the fact that they've got lots of spices planted in the place. For me who actually grew up in a working class family in an agricultural community, most of the plants were familiar but the tour still proved interesting. Our guide knows a lot of trivia about the different herbs and spices he was showing us and he has stories to tell about the place. We got to taste and smell most of the spices.

The tour took more or less three hours. It ended with a visit to the shop of course where people can buy spices.Afterwards, we were brought to another area where we had some locals cook us lunch using the spices that we just saw in the plantation. I was famished after almost four hours of walking and standing so think I had quite my share of the food which they served us.

I would say, the tour is worth the fee. You just have to prepare yourself to pay extra while at the farm. For instance when you ask for a refreshing drink of young coconut milk, someone would readily display his climbing prowess and pick one for you from the tree--for a fee, of course! It is a bit annoying but come to think of it, that is what tourism does actually. It happens everywhere. The tourists come in expecting most people to be hospitable and would just do things out of the goodness of their hearts. However, once the place gets popular, the locals get past that and start seeing the presence of tourists as an opportunity. Well, that is based from what I have observed from my community anyway. But then again, I know nothing. It is a complex socio-economic structure.

Anyway, I found the tour relaxing and somewhat educational. You get to see more of Zanzibar outside of Stone Town during the drive to the farm which is a bonus. And then of course there is the lunch. It is nice to sit down and break bread with fellow travelers and just listen to their stories and their opinions.

Going back to Stone Town, we dropped by a cave which was also allegedly used to hide slaves during the heyday of the slave trade. Then we dropped off to another beach. Some of our companions took the chance to take a dip in the ocean. As for me, I just sat there and enjoyed the view of the Indian ocean. Another morning well spent!

Jambo Zanzibar: The beach and the wildlife

Introduction: The Day I Missed the Train to Dar Es Salaam
Part 1: Zanzibar, Tanzania: Wandering Around the Historic Stone Town

The beach at Prison Island. No edits, no filter.

Walking around Stone Town, locals would often call out "Jambo!"

Jambo here. Jambo there.

Jokingly, we respond "Mambo!" You know, from the Mumbo Jambo. Little did we know we were giving the right answer.

Apparently, jambo is an informal Kiswahili word which means hello. Mambo also has the same meaning. Only, both are slang words and are not respectful enough. We were also taught that we can respond with poa, meaning cool.

After learning that, we cannot stop ourselves from saying jambo to everyone. The word has a nice ring to it. Jambo!

Day 2 of our trip was reserved for wildlife. We set forth early in the morning and joined a group bound for the Jozani Chwaka Bay National Park located within the Jozani Forest. The goal is to go see the red colobus monkey, a rare specie that has been inhabiting the island in isolation.

It was a well organized tour. Upon reaching the national park we were introduced to our guide who briefed us and gave us initial instructions. We then set forth on our assigned trail in quest of this famed monkey with a red coat. Different groups were assigned to different trails to avoid crowding each other.

These sleeping monkeys just can't be bothered!

Ten minutes into the trail and we had our first glimpse of the monkey. It is beautiful. Probably, the most beautiful monkey specie that I have ever seen-not that I have seen that many. They've got kind faces especially when asleep and a thick, shiny coat.

The famed red colobus monkey with its unique red and black color.

A few meters away and we again saw a tribe of them- frisky young ones shouting and jumping from one branch to another. I am glad that this attempt at conservation is succeeding.

Everyone wanted a photo

There is also a mangrove conservation close by. My friend and I begged off and just wandered around the park, getting amazed at how tall the trees and how large the ferns are.

After lunch, we decided to go to Prison Island. Initially, this was not part of the plan . However, we were convinced by another guest in the lodge whom we were talking to over breakfast. He got us excited to see the tortoises. Boy, was it worth it.

I just had to stand beside it for reference!

Those giant Aldabra tortoises were ginormous! Big and OLD. By old, I mean ancient. The oldest is 157 years old or something like that. Just like their movements, they age slowly. Are they lucky to be blessed with such lifespan? Or cursed? To live that long and witness most creatures around you pass away, it does not seem encouraging. Not for humans anyway.

It was a delight watching number of tortoises, munching on greens (maybe the secret to their old age) and moving ever so slowly, grunting like pigs. Just like the monkeys at Jozani Forest, these creatures are also under conservation. I hope to see their tribe increase.

Before we headed back, we strolled for a while at the beach. I take pride in our Philippine beaches but I guess since Prison Island is privately owned, there are less crowds so it remained pristine. Standing on the white sand, staring at the sea, the seafoam waters looked so inviting but I refused to step into it for fear I would disturb the tranquility. I remember telling a friend that it looked "photoshopped." It really does.





Just like the tortoises that inhabit the island, I could live there forever. How I wish! As they say, all good things must come to an end. Before the setting of the sun, we found ourselves boarding the boat and heading back to Stone Town.

Zanzibar, Tanzania: Wandering around the historic Stone Town

In my May 3 post, I have written about The Day I Missed the Train to Dar Es Salaam.

The reason we headed that way is to visit the beautiful archipelago of Zanzibar, a semi-autonomous part of Tanzania.

The archipelago located in the Indian Ocean is known for its beaches and spices. However, it also harbors a dark past having been one of the largest ports for the Arab  slave trade. Personally, I am not particularly interested in the beaches- we've got lots of those back home. My interest in visiting the place is more of cultural and historical.

From Dar Es Salaam, my friend and I took the Azam ferry to Zanzibar,which is about 2 hours of travel. Ferry is not that bad. The waters were just a bit choppy so we alighted a bit lightheaded.

Upon arrival, our passports stamped (since the island is semi-autonomous, they have a different passport stamp from that of Tanzania) our body temperatures were checked and our yellow fever card inspected,after which we were declared good to go.

The port was bustling. Zanzibar is really touristy so you there are countless touts-taxi touts, hotel touts--all over the place. Since I have read somewhere that there was no need to take a taxi, I suggested to my friend that we walk and try to find our guest house. We wandered around, got lost in alleyways and shops while trying to dodge a very persistent tout until we eventually found Jambo Guesthouse. Unfortunately, they were fully booked. The owner generously took us to another inn--the name eludes me at the moment--which was surprisingly  much cheaper. We booked ourselves in the dormitory but they offered to give us a separate bedroom within the dormitory for the same price. The gods must have been smiling at us that day!

Famished, we took our lunch in one of the local places then decided to start our tour right after. The place is just oozing with history. The alleyways were like a maze which our guide explained to us was part of the town's planning. It was designed to make it difficult for slaves to escape.

The building doors were a work of art, testament to the Persian and Omani Arab occupation.

 

 

Stone Town's slave market
First in our list of places to see is the slave market which is now the location of an Anglican church. Listening to our tour guide talk about the slaves being tricked or sold to slavery then made to walk or packed in dhows to reach Zanzibar distressed me. Upon reaching Zanzibar, they are are not only packed inhumanely like sardines in prison cells with none of the necessary facilities where they can do their business. They are also shackled. Then of course, if there is anyone who manages to escape, the maze of alleyways in the city ensure that they would never succeed in their pursuit of freedom.   I cannot imagine how some people are so consumed with greed that they have no qualms treating their fellow men like commodities. Well I have to say, this is still happening these  days. Human trafficking is still very much alive the only difference now is that the operations are covert and are not publicized just like the slave auctions they had back then.

Photo courtesy of Ara

A glimpse of the prison cell. As many as 300 would be packed here.

Inside the cathedral. The altar is the site of the original whipping post.

Our brilliant guide standing by the doors of the cathedral.

A memorial

Outside the cathedral

Darajani Bazaar

Right across the Anglican church/ former slave market is the Darajani market. This is a bustling place of commerce and like other places in the world was not spared by mass produced, cheap Chinese goods. There were spices, dates, a lot of bananas and so much more. You can find everything in the bazaar.I had fun going around the place.  Interestingly, we also found several copies of Filipino soap operas selling like pancakes.

One thing I like about the heritage part of Stone Town is that it is actually "walkable" so you do not really get lost.  You just have to be careful of your belongings (just like in any place you travel to) and when wandering around at night. A few days before our arrival, there was news of some girls being mugged while walking back to their hostel after visiting  the night market.

Hamamni Persian Baths

This is a public bath house built by the second sultan of Zanzibar in the Hamamni neighborhood. The baths  are no longer being used but we were told they were functional until the early 90's. What I remember during our visit was that there was a separate area for men and women, a space for socializing and there were areas for shaving etc. It is pretty interesting.  I never imagined bathing as something socializing. Swimming maybe but bathing? No! While we were there, I cannot help myself from imagining how it must have been like. I guess it is not that different from the resorts we have today except that we have swimming pools instead of baths. Or maybe, it is just like going to the sauna where you just sit there getting all sweaty while talking about all sorts of things from politics to the mundane.

The Old Fort

Originally, this is a structure built by the Omani Arabs after they captured Zanzibar from the Portuguese. Later on it was used as prison cells. Now it is a cultural center. The ampitheater is being used for local performances.

                                

Other places we did not visit

• Freddie Mercury House
• House of Wonders
• Palace Museum
• Livingstone House

Makati: A day at the Ayala Museum

It was the weekend before the Independence Day celebration. Since I have always wanted to check out the Ayala Museum, I decided that it was the best time to pay a visit to the place. What could better than brushing up on Philippine history and marking the day by reflecting on the essence of being a Filipino?

This is a closeup of the diorama depicting Emilio
Aguinaldo's declaration of Independenceat Kawit, Cavite.

The museum is located at the corner of de la Rosa Street along Makati Avenue. It would have been an easy walk coming from Ayala bus stop, however I had no choice but to take a taxi as the rain started to pour heavily just before I alighted from the bus. From the Ayala bus stop along EDSA, it cost me 60 pesos taxi ride to reach the place. Entrance fee was P225 (local resident rate).

At the onset, I found the museum unwelcoming. There was no warmth from the people at the reception/ admission center. No smiles at all. They did not offer any information. The lady and the guy behind the counter were like mechanized robots- they just got my payment, gave me my ticket and that's it. No other instructions. No offer of the brochures. (I took one anyway thinking I could browse it later when I get home. I later discovered I could have toured the place for free being a member of the academe.) No directions. So different from the other museums I've been into where you usually have a smiling curator or a tour guide greet you and give you an introduction of the place and maybe offer to give you a guided tour.

I know, I could have asked but I didn't bother. I just proceeded to the second floor where an impressive visual representation of Philippine history is housed. It was where I found out I could have requested for an audio guide (For a fee of course- I heard it is 75 pesos or something like that). I would have rented one had it been offered earlier at the admission center but I didn't feel like going down again so I just continued with my tour without it. I'd say the 60 dioramas including the different replicas of boats that plied the Philippine waters, located in that floor are really something. The details are so intricate. I admire the patience of the artist who worked on them. The dioramas made history come alive. I lingered for an hour in the place.

This is just part of the gallery. No need for directions, You just start your tour with the diorama marked #1.

The boats that plied the Philippine seas- They models of the Chinese junk, the Arabian baghla, the lorcha, the galleon and the caravel.

This is number 28 diorama featuring an Escolta scene.

The third floor is more like a gallery. Based from the brochure I got, the exhibits change from time to time. When I visited, it featured the art works of Fernando Zobel and Arturo Luz. I am not really an art connoisseur but I did go through each piece trying to connect the title to the art piece. I have read somewhere that it does not do justice to claim a painting to be beautiful-- for what is beauty? It is always more than that. So, I will go with the safest comment. "The paintings were interesting." I am not just saying that. I find it to be true. I never thought that with lines and a few geometric  patterns, you can come up with a human figure carrying a basket, or humans dancing. That is what Arturo Luz does. I hate to admit it but I am not cultured enough. My idea of a  painting is a landscape or a portrait. At first glance, my initial thought at the paintings of Luz and Zobel was that I could have easily done that myself. They look so simple. But then, the longer I stood there, the more complex the paintings became as I start seeing how the different lines and geometric patterns merge to form an image. It takes a genius to simplify a thought with just a few strokes of the brush in a canvas.

On the same floor is also the exhibit "Vestments for Worship Wrapped in Identity" which showcases the work of Dom Martin Hizon Gomez. The vestments on display were made  from textiles woven by the indigenous tribes following their cultural motifs. Going through the collection, made me appreciate more the uniqueness of the indigenous cultures in the country--each culture had one color and one pattern that stood out. This idea was again validated in the textiles section of the museum found in the fourth floor.

Aside from the textiles section, the fourth floor featured a ceramic collection mostly from China, Vietnam and Thailand. There were like hundreds of ceramics on display  here. Each one was unique. Mostly, there were plates, mugs, ewers, jars, vases. However, they all have their own elaborate designs and colors. The displays made me want to visit a ceramic factory and see how they work with the artwork. I once visited Dedza pottery in Malawi, however I did not really get to see how they put their designs. For those who are into ceramics, this repository is worth a visit.

Then there is the gold collection. It features gold jewelry found in different parts of the country most of which are from Mindanao and Mindoro. Interestingly, there was none from the Cordilleras, considering that Benguet is known for its gold mines. It is something I need to research about.

I'd say,  my favorite part of the museum is the second floor. To appreciate the third and fourth floor better, I recommend renting an audio guide. What makes each piece of art, ceramic or gold jewelry is the backstory--which I missed during my visit.

Would I visit the place again? Definitely. I really need another visit to soak it all in. Just one time is not enough, that is for sure.

As for my initial impression about the place being unwelcoming, I still had that kind of feeling after I left. I was asking myself "Is it me having a different set of standards? Or, are they really snooty?" Is it a part of the staff being discrete and that they are just giving you the space to browse at your own leisure? I do not know but definitely, a warm smile would have made a big difference.