Itchy feet in Chang Mai

Travelling via Nakonchaiair bus from Bangkok to Chiang Mai was easy-peasy. My original plan was to take the sleeper train so I would be fully rested upon arrival in Chiang Mai but since the bus was recommended to me, I decided to give it a try. Not a bad choice at all! Water, dinner and blankets were all part of the 759 Baht bus fare which is about half the price if I took the second class coach on the sleeper train. The eight- hour journey was comfortable and uneventful and before I knew it the bus was parked at the Arcade Bus Station.

I was hoping that our arrival would be a bit delayed and we wouldn't be arriving in Chiang Mai at an ungodly hour but it seems the bus runs on time. I should not be complaining.

So, what does one do to pass the time away?

Well, here is an idea. Find a charging station and charge one's phone. Which I did! There were no charging stations around the bus station so I tried the 7-11 shop a few meters away. As luck would have it, they do not have a charging station, but instead have a socket outside the shop where I was told I can plug in my phone free of charge. Ha! I am a fan of anything that is free. Sue me!

Two hours later, phone fully charged, walked back to the bus station, bought myself a cup of Joe and by 7:30 I was ready to hail a song thew to the old city and find a place where I can drop my bags.

Where I stayed:

I originally thought of booking at Julie's Guesthouse but at the last minute I saw a review on TripAdvisor saying that it has got bed bugs. Oops! I once stayed in a backpacker hostel in Lusaka where I saw and crushed bedbugs crawling on the mosquito netting. I didn't sleep a wink the whole night thinking about  bed bugs gorging themselves on my blood and bed bugs getting in my bags and eventually having them in the house. You get the idea. The horror!

Seeing that review, I backtracked and booked myself in the first guest house that I saw.

Central Guesthouse is located near Tha Phae Gate, one of the gates of Chiang Mai's old city. It was actually very near where I was dropped by the song thew. On the first floor of the guesthouse is a Ugo Central restaurant, which seems to be a must try in Chiang Mai. The place is always full and people have to wait for them to be seated. I did not try it myself, though. I have been often full with all the fruits and street foods I munched on while walking around the city.

The lady in charge, who communicates well in English, allowed me to book early without extra charge so that was a good deal. After a refreshing shower and reviewing my planned itinerary, I was ready to hit the streets.

 First stop: Wat Chedi Luang

From Central Guesthouse I walked to Wat Chedi Luang passing by other temples- Wat Phan On and Wat Phan Tao.

Inside Wat Chedi Luang with its standing buddha.

Wat Chedi Luang is a historic temple constructed in the 14th century. You wanna see ruins? Check out this wat's chedi believed to be have been destroyed by an earthquake during the 16th century and further damaged by cannons during the Burmese invasion. I wanted to climb up the stairs and see what is up there but it understandably, it was not allowed.

The ruins of the chedi

The temple used to house the Emerald Buddha before it was taken to Wat Pra Kaew in the outer area of Bangkok's Grand Palace. Now, it just has a replica of the original.

Second stop: Buddhist Manuscript Library and Museum

Found within the Wat Chedi Luang compound, this museum is very easy to miss. It is a 2-story small building with the second floor containing manuscripts of monks. The first floor explains details of the evolution of Wat Chedi Luang and its relevance in history.

Third stop: Chang Mai City Arts and Cultural Centre

My next stop was supposed to be Wat Phra Singh but I couldn't be bothered to ask for directions,so I just wandered around.  The concentration of wats in such a small area was incredible. It was fun just wandering in and out of the temples and marvelling at the elaborate designs. That is an exaggeration on my part. I did not enjoy that bit where I always have to bend down and tie my shoelaces after coming out of temple. I learned in Bangkok that we always have to remove our shoes when entering temples. Learned that too late. Next time, I will travel with slip on sneakers.

A few blocks away from Wat Chedi Luang and I found myself in front of Chang Mai's City Arts and Cultural Center.

Entrance fee was 90 baht but they offer a single entrance ticket for the Arts and Cultural Centre, The Lanna Folklife Museum and the Chiang Mai Historical Museum for only 180 baht. Cool! Always, the bargain hunter, I decided to take the single entrance ticket thinking that I would have enough time to visit all the three. Thing is, I requested for a museum guide which kind of extended the the time of my visit at the Centre. He was particularly proud of his Lanna heritage and was telling stories about Chang Mai's Lanna Thai kingdom, the royal families of Chang Mai and Siam and life in Chang Mai in general. Before we know knew it, we were being ushered out of the building after we extended 15 minutes beyound closing time. I am glad I requested for a guide. They always liven up museum visits. Judging from the reactions of the staff, it seems it is not usual for guests to request one.

Fourth stop: Tha Phae Gate

Tha Phae Gate with all its pigeons

I was dropped by the song thew driver across Tha Phae Gate earlier in the day but I did not realize its historical importance. It did look interesting because there was a couple having their wedding photos taken, but I thought it was just a park or something.

However, my  guide at Chang Mai's Arts and Cultural Center said that it is actually one of the four gates of the old city. That particular information automatically made it more interesting for me. Had to stop by and check it out again. While I was at it, I also went a bit further to see the Ping river. If Bangkok has its Chao Phraya river, Chang Mai has the its own Ping river.

Fifth stop: Thai massage parlor
Well, its Thai massage so the best place to experience it is Thailand, wouldn't you agree. Chang Mai has a massage parlor in every corner in every block. One doesn't lack choices. In my case, I went to one near the Central Guesthouse. First thing I noticed, they do not have massage beds with holes for the face, but instead have the mattresses on the floor. I guess it makes sense. It is a lot easier for the masseuse. Thai massage require a lot of pressure.

Sixth stop: Markets and Shops

Since Sompet and Warorot Market were specifically mentioned in the brochure of Central Guest house, I decided to check them out. I did not find anything spectacular in Sompet market. It is a wet market and within the old city, but while I was there, I observed this guy talking to tourists and giving them the names of the different vegetables and fruits. That must be the attraction. Me, I found the spices more interesting.

Warorot market on the other hand is different. It has got everything- curios, gold, souvenirs, clothes. It is a shoppers haven and right across it is the TonLamYai Market. Both are huge, but offer more or less the same kind of stuff. I spent hours going in and out of the shops. In the end, I realized, I bought nothing. Blame it on having too many choices. Well, that and the fact that I know I still have several days left. I did not like the idea of moving around carrying the extra baggage.On my way back to the guesthouse, I passed by Lao Zhou Alley, the Chiang Mai Chinatown. I do not know about the quality but the products offered here seem to be more expensive than in Warorot.

Goods displayed at Sompet Market

At the Tonlamyai Market considered to be the Lanna culture market

Warorot Market: a  bird's eye view

Dresses on display at Lou Zhou Alley

Seventh stop: Wat Phra Singha

This is my last stop. Constructed by King Phayoo of the Lannas, this wat is ancient. I visited the place very early in the morning and was impressed seeing the sun shine on its huge chedi. It is one of the more important wats in the city.

The magnificent chedi of Wat Prasingha

Monk alley at Wat Prasingha

Chang Mai is very tourist friendly. It has a lot of activities to offer-ziplining, cooking classes, chatting with monks, river cruise, nature treks, visiting elephant sanctuaries. It is no wonder it is overrun by tourists.

In my case, I chose to stay within the old city, just walking around and basking in its energy. Maybe, next time I return, I would venture farther afield.