Corregidor Island: The ruins of WWII

The ruins of the Mile Long Barracks (Photo courtesy of Emilia.Pedrito)

I shall return!

Words from Gen. Douglas MacArthur when he left our beleaguered country. Mine too, when I left Corregidor. I will be back to see more of the place. One day is definitely not enough to soak in history in this place considered to be a war memorial.

  

The statue of Gen. Douglas MacArthur at Lorcha Dock where he uttered his famous I shall return statement.
(Photos courtesy of Emilia Pedrito)

I remember sitting in front of the television during one of our Christmas holidays and watching a DVD of HBO’s miniseries Band of Brothers. It was such a compelling and remarkable work that I was glued in front of the screen for hours watching Easy Company train and take action in the US European campaign during the World War II.

I also remember listening to discussions of Philippine history and descriptions of the Death March from Bataan to Tarlac plus memorizing dates and data for exams and quizzes.

For a long time, WWII in my head are characters from televisions, photos from books and recollections of stories from old folks back home talking about how helicopters would airdrop food supplies and them having to scramble to pick them and return into hiding. There were also stories of Japanese soldiers taking over municipalities and requiring the locals to provide crates of sweet potatoes daily for the soldiers.

My visit to Corregidor brought everything in perspective. WWII is no longer something that happened on TV nor is it just pictures and dates. It made the stories I heard real.  WWII did happen and people lost their lives. Our country was devastated.  You go around the island and you see all the ruins,the bunkers, the bomb craters, evidence that it happened right on our doorstep. Even the several batteries are riddled with bullet marks.

Entrance to Malinta Tunnel where Filipino and American soldiers hid from the Japanese soldiers. Douglas MacArthur ahd his headquarters here and at one time Manuel L. Quezon also moved the seat of the Philippine government in one of the lateral tunnels. (photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

Inside Malinta Tunnel. Photo taken during the Lights and Sounds show. (photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

A lateral tunnel within the Malinta Tunnel (photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

A diorama of the makeshift hospital put up in one of the lateral tunnels within the Malinta tunnel. President Quezon's was quartered  nearby due to his lingering tuberculosis. (Photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

The other entrance to the Malinta Tunnel (photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

WWII was not only destructive. It was way too much expensive. Listening to Jen, our tour guide, detail  how much each artillery battery cost left me dumbfounded. Millions of money, not in pesos but in dollars, were spent for just one battery. To think that there were thirteen of them in Corregidor alone. All that resource to destroy and kill, it is simply unimaginable for me. It could have fed the whole country for years.

Battery Crockett (Photo courtesy of Emilia Pedrito)

Artillery in the Japanese memorial (Photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

Battery Way (Photo courtesy of Emilia Pedrito)

Baterry Grubbs (Photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

Worse, the war cost us a lot of lives. All the passion spent for a cause could have been redirected to something more productive. In Corregidor alone, thousands of soldiers- Filipinos, Americans and Japanese alike- died. All in name of freedom and love for country. Several memorials were put up for them. Hopefully, these memorials will give us a constant reminder that the freedom we enjoy today was not handed in a silver platter. It was hard earned with the blood and suffering of the valiant soldiers and their network of supporters. Power struggles will always be there and we need to remain faithful to our country and to what our heroes fought for.

Japanese War Memorial (photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

The dome within the Pacific War Memorial. It is actually open from the top and at noontime, every 6th of May which is the day Corregidor surrendered, the sunrise falls directly on the altar beneath the dome.  (Photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

A sculpture of two comrades, an American soldier helping his wounded Filipino companion. (Photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

The Flame of Freedom by a certain Greek artist commissioned by President Marcos. It is found within the Pacific War Memorial (Photo courtesy of Lea Degay)

Corregidor is there to constantly remind us of the facts of war. One friend has been convincing me to go there. I am glad I finally did with my lagalag partners who took care of all the bookings and the arrangements. Thanks also to them, I have photos of the trip, one of the many benefits of travelling with a group. To my credit, I did bring my camera. Stupid as it sounds, I just forgot to charge the battery.

I shall go back to the place. There is just so much to see and so much to learn . It is one of those places where I reckon one discovers something new during each visit..

GOOD TO KNOW

There are two ways to get to Corregidor.

One way is to book a tour with Sun Cruises, reservation has to be done before the trip. Check in time is an hour before the trip but for those taking the weekend tour, try to be there earlier. We were there by 6:40 and there is already a long queue.

The ferry terminal at Manila Bay (Photo courtesy of Emilia Pedrito)

We took the guided tour option which covers the ferry travel to and from the island, tour of the island onboard a tram with a tour guide, and buffet lunch. This is exclusive of the 30 Php terminal fee at Manila Bay. For those who are going to the island for the first time, I recommend the same option. It is well worth it.  Taking the tour with Sun Cruises is as simple as booking and then bringing yourself early to the Esplanade Seaside Terminal at the SM MOA Complex. They take care of the rest for you.

The Sun Cruise ferry, this was taken at the wharf in Corregidor (Photo courtesy of Emilia Pedrito)

The trams for the guided tour (Photo courtesy of Emilia Pedrito)

The other way is to start off from Bataan. This is more of a DIY travel. My friend did the number crunching and found that it actually costs more and it has more hassle. It could also be worth trying.

Useful information we got at Corregidor for those who want to start off from Bataan. I have not tried it so I cannot vouch for it. 

Puerto Galera: Liming at White Sand Beach

So, what does one do in Puerto Galera? There is a lot.

First on the list is to dive. It is within the area of, get this guys… the center of the center of marine biodiversity in the world! If that is your intention then Sabang is where you head. It is the take off point for divers.

So you cannot dive? Well, you can do the next best thing. Rent a boat (It is recommended that you do this with a group of people so you save on costs) to take you to the islands for snorkeling.  In White Beach, there are several locals walking up and down the beach offering to make boat arrangements and package tours. Prices are regulated but you could probably bargain.

Third would be to swim in its clear, blue waters. If you get bored doing that, you could rent a kayak or probably a jetski. Maybe a banana boat. Or, you could parasail.

             

                 

Then there is the inland tour. Rent a pedicab and go chase waterfalls. Visit the Mangyan village. These activities have package prices too.

Or you can just sit there and do nothing which is what we did.

They have a word for it in Trinidad and Tobago, an island country just like the Philippines. They call it liming. It is when you do nothing while sharing good food, conversation and laughter.

I found it totally relaxing, just sitting there, watching people in the crowded white sand beach while chatting with my friend and reminiscing the good memories.

Once in a while, we would get up and walk up and down the beach. Then eventually find chairs again in some restaurant or café. A number of locals approached us with offers of boat rental for island hopping or massage. All of which we ignored.

At some point, we decided that we should at least see something of Puerto Galera so we hopped in one of the pedicabs and went to see Tamaraw Falls.

It rained the night before and Tamaraw Falls was not at its best. The volume is probably more during the rainy season but since we went there during summer, it was not that impressive.

Going back, we had lunch in one of the restaurants by the roadside and just enjoyed the view of the bay. It looked so lovely.

Our pedicab driver also stopped by the mangrove conservation park so we can check it out.

I am glad to see  that something is being done for the environment since honestly, Puerto Galera is another classic example of a place being taken over by tourism. Lots of construction work happening to accommodate all the tourists coming in. Not bad for the place’s economy for sure. I just hope that the Department of Tourism and the local government are looking into environmental sustainability.

There is also a need to look into communication abilities of the different staff. I was with a British friend who was frustrated at not being able to communicate to the staff in English. I was there and it is not a problem of the accent being British. It was lack of ability to communicate in English. I do not blame the staff. I blame the resort owners and the tourism council for failing to invest in training these people. To think that Puerto Galera, being a diving hub, is not only a destination for local tourists but for international travelers as well. For the Philippines to compete with its neighbors in terms of tourism, it has to invest on training those on the hospitality industry.

Would I go back to Puerto Galera? Probably. One thing is I have to learn to dive so I can better appreciate what the place has to offer.

Some useful information:

• Boat fare from Batangas port to Sabang is 230 php. These boats also go to White Beach. On my way I travelled with Father and Son Company. Going back I took Minolo Shipping Lines. Same quality of service. Both have scheduled departures from White Beach.

• Terminal fee is 30 php.
• Environmental fee which I paid upon arrival is 50 php
• Pedicab from Sabang to White Beach is around 100 php.
• We stayed at White Beach Resort. Our room with one double bed and one single cost 1,200 php. Room was nice and clean but had problem with the AC and the shower. Staff are approachable and friendly but can barely communicate in English.
• A helpful contact I meet in Puerto Galera is Helen Garcia, mobile number 0916 796 4765. She can arrange for island tours, inland tours and accommodation.

Padre Burgos, Quezon: The rocks and the white sands of Borawan

Borawan in pictures is impressive.

 It makes for panoramic photos... the towering rocks with the lush island vegetation on the background, the white sand beach and azure waters on the foreground. Well, it is all that and more.

Unlike popular tourism destinations like Puerto Galera and Boracay, the place has no resorts. You go  there and you get  none of the usual amenities provided by hotels and resorts. No parties. No bars.

Going to Borawan means being prepared to sleep in a tent and bringing and cooking your own food. Well, there is actually a compromise for those who do not want to be encumbered by all the cooking stuff. If what you want is to swim and worry about nothing, you have to make sure to make prior arrangements with one of the organizers in Padre Burgos. They will take care of organizing your boats, tents and food at an extra cost of course. Borawan after all is not for the hardcore going back to basic experience

That is what my friend did, which is lucky since, we arrive in the island very late in the evening.

We were ravenous upon arrival at the island so the first thing we did was to unpack the food. It was a long journey for my friends who came from Manila. Without traffic, estimated travel time aboard a private car would just be around 4-5 hours. It was not the case for them. They started off from Quezon city at around 1 in the afternoon. They were only able to pick me up in Lucena at around 6 in the evening. From Lucena to Padre Burgos is  another hour  travel. On top of that is an extra hour wandering along the Zigzag Road or Bituka ng Manok of  Quezon National Forest Park. Yes, we got lost. Since signal is intermittent, we lost google maps and ended up driving up that route for another hour or so before we realized that we took the wrong road. Took us another forty minutes to travel back and meet up with more friends at Holy Cross Church, the designated meet up place in Padre Burgos.  Last leg of the journey from Padre Burgos to Borawan is another 15 minutes.

In a way, it was nice that we arrived late in the evening. Almost everyone in the island were settled in and were either sleeping or quietly sharing a beer or two which they brought with them in one of the cottages. We had the exclusive use of the beach after dinner when we decided to take a dip in its clear, inviting waters. For those who wonder, the swimming area is lighted. I am still unsure where the power supply comes from since they are not connected to the mainland. Either they have a generator somewhere which I cannot hear or they generate electricity through solar panels.

To keep the jellyfishes out, the swimming area is netted. The nets don’t seem to be doing a good job though judging by the number we saw while we were swimming. Good thing we were forewarned so we were extra careful. Nobody got stung. I couldn’t say the same for the jellyfishes. Some of those in our group, took the task of catching some of these giant jellyfishes which wandered in the swimming area and releasing them back in the ocean. There is high probability that some of those jellyfishes caught and released back were hurt in the process.

One of the giant jellyfishes enjoying a quick dip in the waters with us.

The next day while waiting for breakfast, we kayaked. They have some for rent in the island for the price  of 300 pesos/person/hour. It was fun. We managed to go around one of the promontories close by and saw a good number of jellyfish along the way. Some were brown. Others were pinkish and then there were the translucent ones. Interesting! I have to admit I do not know much about these creatures.

After that, we boarded a boat and travelled an hour to reach to Puting Buhangin which is next to Kwebang Lampas where we had another dip in the ocean. There were less jellyfishes here for sure. Only thing is  the beach is actually very short and there are no designated docking places for boats. They would come and go in the same area where people are swimming. I nearly got hit twice. Those boats are swimming hazards.

No doubt, the waters in Puting Buhangin look inviting. Problem boats land exactly where people swim. Since the beach is actually small, there is no space designated as docking area  and no space specifically for swimming.

In retrospect, would I recommend Borawan? I do not think so. Not because it is not worth visiting but because it does not appear to be coping with the tourism and that there does not seem to be a long term eco-tourism plan for its sustainability.

The management seems to be bent on cashing in on the number of people wanting to visit the place that they disregarded to put in systems to maintain cleanliness and sustainability. There is an entrance fee of 80 pesos, which I guess covers the security guard and the use the toilet and the shower. However, after that visitors have to pay rent for almost everything- cottage, tent space, tent, boats.  I love the idea of not putting up resorts in the place and people who want to visit will have to camp. What this means though is that people will camp only a few meters from the beach since unlike the beaches of Puerto Galera or Pagudpud, the beach in Borawan is actually too narrow. I saw for sure that the water from the shower goes right back into ocean.  I wonder if it is the same with the sewage from the toilet. When tourists also visit, they bring with them everything and that includes all the junk-plastic utensils, plastic bag, food wrappers.  What happens with all these waste after? Do they bring them back to the mainland for disposal?

I can see Borawan as a potential eco-tourism destination. In my mind, my rough idea would be: First, maintain the concept of going back to the basic—tents and all but make the entrance fee inclusive of tent space and the use of kitchen utensils and amenities like common kitchen, running water, well maintained toilets. This would mean less disposable stuff (i.e. disposable plates, cups, forks and spoons) coming from the mainland. In addition, collecting a separate fee for tent space (which management is doing at present at a cost of 200 php/night) on top of 220 php entrance fee for overnight guests and tent rental at 500 php is preposterous. It is like paying for a mid range resort room without the comforts that come with it.

Second, have a designated mess area and tent area in order to manage sanitation, security and privacy better. As of now, the system is you pitch your tent next to the cottage (mess area and hangout area) you rented. The next visitors would probably be pitching their tent right where the previous campers spilled the soup. A designated tent area  would also translate to more privacy for those who are in the tents. I was awakened by the sound of passers by on their way to the toilets and the beach.

Then probably, have the toilets and shower much, much farther away from the water.

Well, that is just me thinking out loud. What do I know? I am just another traveler trying to see as much as I can before I get claimed by the bosoms of Mother Earth.

Balete, Batangas: Marian Orchard and the view of Taal

Balete, Batangas is a picturesque town along Taal lake but before reaching the town proper, one gets to pass by Marian Orchard which is located along the highway in barangay Malabanan.

The first time I visited the Marian Orchard, I am not quite sure what to make of it. It sure is a project on a grand scale with towering statues of saints. A Catholic themed park, it seems to me that it is still a work in progress. Despite that it has already become a pilgrimage site for many Catholic devotees. Twice I’ve been there and both times, there were many people visiting the place. Honestly, I am a bit bothered that faith has become commercialized (they charge an entrance fee of 50 pesos) but I guess that is how they manage to maintain the place and to improve it further.

Upon entrance to the complex, one is met by the sight of Christ the Redeemer towering above the chapel. Then there is the plaza of apostles where enormous sculptures of the apostles are lined up. This leads to meditation gardens and the view deck. The place also features Stations of the Cross. I bet the place must be jam packed during the Lenten season.

The lifelike statues lined up along the plaza of apostles including those in the Stations of the Cross are impressive but what inspired me more is the sight from the two view decks that they have in the place. It is just amazing to go up there and watch the treetops and the lake. The view of the placid waters of Taal evokes a feeling of serenity and awe. One can also just walk around the gardens and be amazed at the vibrant colors of the flowers. I could see that great care was really put in cultivating those gardens. Personally, I believe that if there is anything that would restore the faith of broken souls who visiting the place, it would not be the statues of the saints all over the place but it would be the vibrant color of the flowers and the sheer beauty of the landscape.

I am not sure what time they open in the mornings but next time I would like to go there really early for three reasons. First is to avoid the multitude of visitors who are mostly taking selfies. Second is to see the view when the sun is about to rise. I am not sure if the sunrise can be viewed from there so I want to check out. Third reason is just to take a walk. The sloping terrain would be a good exercise.

Other places that are interesting around the place would be:

• ·         Nayomi Sanctuary Resort (heard it is good for glamping)
• ·         Cintai Corito Gardens (Balinese inspired resort)
• ·         Taal Lake
• ·         Honey shops along the Malabanan road ( I recommend the Honey Cider of Queen Bee Honey shop)

How to get to Marian Orchard from Lipa Bayan/ Grand Termina of Lipa, Batangas:

• ·         Board a jeepney to Marawoy. (fare depends on where one is coming from but regular fare is 8 pesos)
• ·         Drop off at Jollibee, Marawoy/Caltex both located at the junction of Levi Town
• ·         From there, take a pedicab to Marian Orchard. Fare should be around 70 pesos.

How to get to Marian Orchard from Tanauan, Batangas:

• ·         Drop off at Jollibee, Marawoy/Caltex both located at the junction of Levi Town
• ·         From there, take a pedicab to Marian Orchard. Fare should be around 70 pesos.

The day I missed the train to Dar Es Salaam

It was supposed to be a cheap safari. I imagined seeing giraffes, elephants, antelopes and all those animals just like what some reviews say online. Well, some people are just lucky. Definitely, NOT Me!

There are things that we plan for and there are those that we don’t. They just happen and when they do, they usually get stuck in our memories just like the day we had unintentionally spent Christmas eve with Mama Eda in Mbeya, Tanzania.

TAZARA train station; Where it was all supposed to start.... (how it looks on the other side)

This was the original plan:

December 23: Lilongwe to Mzuzu. Spend night at Mzuzu

December 24 (early morning): Mzuzu to the Songwe border

December 24 (8 a.m): cross the border to Tanzania

December 24 (12 noon): be in Mbeya; catch the TAZARA train to Dar es Salaam; Christmas eve on the train

December 25: Christmas in Dar es Salaam

Very simple.

So here is what actually happened.

I started off from Lilongwe morning of the 23rd and arrived in Mzuzu in good time. Unfortunately for my friend who is starting off at Kasungu, she decided to take the afternoon regular Axa bus which got delayed somewhere, probably at the bus depot in Blantyre. Instead of the expected 2 p.m arrival at Kasungu, she had to sit at the station and wait for a long time, 4 hours more or less.

Eventually bus arrived at six in the evening. Since the bus is full, she had no choice but to stand.  Not an easy feat as the bus was travelling at full speed. To make it worse, the driver hit a pedestrian. The driver would have drove on had the passengers not shouted at him to go back and check. They did. Unfortunately, the man died. Quite a traumatic experience for my friend who eventually arrived in Mzuzu at around 4 in the morning, after nearly an hour detour to the police station prompted by the incident. After a quick stop to pick me up at another friend’s house, we headed for the Mzuzu bus depot. No rest for her.

The minibus bound for the border was already waiting when we arrived at the depot. There were a few passengers inside and I immediately made a beeline towards the back thinking we won't be disturbed and we could catch forty winks or so. Wrong decision!  We got squeezed in at the back of the dark minibus by these two young lads who were conversing really loudly and violently in Chitumbuka, a language incomprehensible to me. Had it been in Chichewa I would have stood a chance of at least getting an idea of what they were talking about. They were saying azungo a lot and I felt like they were talking about us. Heavy backpacks on our laps,  I kept hoping for dawn to break because it was getting a bit threatened by their tone. It was a sleepless journey.

For all my worries, we arrived at the border in good shape. Paid fifty dollars for our visas, got our passports stamped and hopped on a motorbike taxi to find the bus. There were several persistent touts wanting to change our dollars. We managed to dodge them and got on a bus to Mbeya where a man, whom we thought to be the bus conductor, immediately handed over a piece of paper which looked like tickets. Little did we know he was pretending to be the conductor and is just trying to rip us off.  He did not succeed. When the passenger seated beside me learned how much we have to pay, he got outraged and demanded that we be given the right fare. That was when the real conductor approached us. We got some really good Tanzanians aboard that bus. Much as we wanted to chat further with them, we were unable to. Once, we crossed the Songwe border to Tanzania, it became pretty obvious that communication is not as easy as it is in Malawi. We did not know Swahili. Our English was of little help but kindness has no language.

At the bus depot in Mbeya, we were informed that there was no direct bus going to the TAZARA train station, we had to take a dalla dalla to the city proper and then another to the station. It wasn't stressful though.   People we asked directions from just led the way and we followed. Arrived at the train station on schedule. That particular bit was nice..us arriving on time. The thing is the train did not..... IT WAS DELAYED.. 10 HOURS. and the second class coach which I booked was under repair and still in Dar es Salaam. All that effort I spent! Researching the TAZARA train contact numbers. Calling countless people and offices to get us booked. All were in vain. Of all the coaches to break down, it had to be the second class. Then of course, the first class was fully booked. The only choice was the super seater which is just like in a bus with very uncomfortable seats.

The facade of train station at Mbeya, Tanzania

I am not fussy about such things. Neither is my friend. We were just tired from the overland travel. All we wanted was to get on a decent bed without having to worry about our backpacks.   We decided we cannot afford to be seating around waiting for the train to arrive that night.  Maybe if we were well rested, it could have been a different story.

Truth be told, I so looked forward to boarding that train and I was  feeling let down. The cheap safari I read so much about and was anticipating was not going to happen. No passing through the Selous Game Reserve. No elephants. Not this time. Even if the train manages to arrive at all, we would still be passing by the game reserve at night. There was nothing else we can do about that. 

We decided to just to head to town and find somewhere to sleep. Luckily, my friend knew some people in Dar who knew someone who could host us in Mbeya. They took care of everything and in no time,  a good doctor came to pick us up. We ended up spending Christmas Eve with his mother-in-law who told us to call her Mama Eda. . She graciously served us a a Christmas feast of rice, chicken and plantains.

In retrospect,  I guess this was the universe's way of telling us that Christmas Eve was no time to be on the road. It was a time to be with family. That night, we found ours in a warm Tanzanian home.  

Posing for a photo in our borrowed chitenjes with Mama Eda and her daughter, our hosst for Christmas Eve.

The next day, Christmas day, Mama Eda brought us early to the bus depot. I was quite pleased as we got nice seats but as they say good things never last. To complete the journey, the bus broke down. All passengers have to get off and transfer to another bus which fortunately did not take long to arrive. Myself, I got a spot smack in the middle aisle seat. No window seat this time Couldn’t see anything outside from where I was. I had no trouble falling asleep as I always do in buses.

Regrettably, that was when the animals decided to show themselves along road. The bus apparently passes by Mikumi game reserve. While I was sleeping my friend who was right in front of the bus and had the vantage view saw a number of zebras and baboons on the road side. There were giraffes and elephants crossing the road. Talk about me being unlucky!

So what I promised to myself is that I have to really take the train going back to Mbeya ...which I did! Still no animals though, it was pitch black when we passed by the reserve.

Another time. Maybe I will be luckier then.

It may have been stressful at that time, but I would say that it was a very interesting trip, a Christmas celebration to remember.

The train that I missed. I did manage to be in it on the way back to Malawi.

The day I got turned back from the Zambian border

One summer day. Lilongwe, Malawi, Southeastern Africa

To see the Victoria Falls in Zambia has always been a dream for me. I have written it in my bucket list, year 2007.

Finally, I have the chance.

Filed for my vacation leave. Did my reading about the place. Made my itinerary. Another solo travel for me.

Woke up at daybreak, much earlier than my usual schedule. The bus supposedly leaves before six as it is a long journey from Lilongwe to the Lusaka. Quickly showered. Made myself a cup of coffee with the hope that I get to finish it before the taxi I reserved last night arrives in the compound to pick me up. No such luck. Didn’t have time to finish it. Edward, the taxi driver, arrived on time. So, just poured the rest of the coffee down the drain. Boarded the taxi and went to Old Town bus depot in Area 2 to catch the Kobs bus. Sadly, there was no bus to catch.  There was no trip scheduled for that day. Crap, didn’t plan that. What happened? Last time I checked that is a scheduled day for the bus to travel to Lusaka.

Ok, what are the Implications…no Victoria Falls trip for me? Not happening! There has got to be a plan B. Hopped back into the taxi.. Edward suggested going to the Mchinji depot—take the minibus that goes straight to the border- Chipata- and then get another bus to Lusaka.

Hmmm, seems to me like a plan!

Off to the Mchinji depot.

When we arrived at the place, the minibus is almost full. Asked the driver if it goes straight to the border. He assured me that it does. A lady, seated in front of me turned back to look at  me “You are with me. We are together,” she says. Further conversation reveals that she is going to Chipata in the Zambian side of the border to visit her sick mother. Good news! For me at least. It is nice to have someone who knows what to do and where to go.

At Mchinji, the driver parked the minibus. I thought it was just for the driver to drop off some passengers and pick others instead, he glanced at where we are seated and told everybody that he is not going to Chipata. Those are taxis going to Chipata from here, he says while pointing at some Toyota Corollas a few steps away from us.

Wooo! What happened here? Thought he is supposed to take us to the border. Felt cheated. Tried to reason out with the him. So frustrating but what can we do? He is the driver. Without him on the wheels, the bus wouldn’t move, would it?

The lady just told me to go with her. Things are just the way they are. It is amazing how they have high tolerance for these things. So, shared taxi it is. While waiting, some guys approached us with Zambian kwacha. Their rates sounded fair. Not much difference with the rates I saw when I last checked the internet. Got some of their Zambian kwachas but kept most of my Malawian notes. The lady told me she knew someone at the border who can also give us fair rates.

Reached the border. Got my passport stamped ready to exit Malawi. Walked the short distance to the Zambian side. Personnel inside the booth, after checking with computer, gets back at me.

Tells me, “Madam you have to go to the Zambian embassy in Lilongwe to have this stamped.” I stared at him. He goes further to explain that Filipinos cannot get their visas upon arrival at the border. Only then did I realize what he is telling me. 

 WHAT? Are you fuckin’ kidding me!

That was not what I knew and read. All Filipinos I have talked to in Malawi got their visas at the border. What changed?

 Tried to talk my way into getting my passport stamped but it was not happening. Staff told me that if I start back to Mchinji,then to Lilongwe, then I could be back by noon and then be able to enter Zambia the same day.

Information about the bus I was supposed to take displayed at the border

I was devastated. I just went out of the office and stared at the horizon, looking at the Zambian side that I might never cross.

The lady who told me we would be together, stood there. Asked me what is wrong. I told her.

She shook her head at me.

“Do not force things,” she says  “If it happens, it happens. Just do not force it!”

Very sound advice. It doesn’t make me feel any better though.

So plan C...

She's right. I should not force things but the immigration officer told me that if I head for the embassy, I could get my visa stamped and be back in the afternoon.Why not, I just have to rush to Lilongwe and back. Not difficult, ain’t it?

Went back to the Malawian immigration office.

That was when it struck me… It is Mother’s day celebration in Malawi! It is a holiday! Zambian embassy would be closed.

 No luck getting a visa. Oh well.

Travelled back to Mchinji, then to Lilongwe. Called the same taxi driver.

Not giving up, asked him to take me to the Zambian embassy. Maybe, they are still open. Fat chance. Of course, it is not open. It is a holiday!

Returned home at Area 6. My roommate was surprised to see me back.

I joked about it… That is what my Filipino passport can get me…part of the Filipino experience in a foreign land.

Balayan, Batangas: One wedding and a funeral

The other day, I went to Balayan. I woke up thinking I have to go somewhere but I really did not know where..had no plans at all. I just knew that I want be out of the house doing something  different. So, I asked Google. Should it be somewhere in Laguna, Quezon or Batangas?  Prioritized Batangas after some thinking. Would have wanted to do an ocular of the beach so I can give good recommendations to friends but it was just too hot. Anyway, I decided in the end to go to Balayan instead after I saw photos of old houses similar to those of Taal. I really am a sucker for anything historic.

Balayan is  two towns farther than Taal. Unlike Taal where one is dropped right in the middle of the town, passengers going to Balayan have to get off the public utility vehicle along the highway and take another pedicab at the cost of 10 pesos  (not bad) to the town center. Knowing nothing about Balayan, I just asked the pedicab driver to take me to the church.

The church looked its age. Old and rundown. It seems to me like the place needs a bit of tender loving care but what do I know. I am just passing by.

It was another hot day and thought of getting something to munch on. Wandered around the public market right across the church but couldn’t find a local restaurant. There was a Jollibee and McDonalds near the vicinity but couldn’t care less for those two. I did not travel all the way to Balayan just to eat at fastfood restaurants.

One pedicab driver recommended and brought me to this place located a bit farther from the back of the church. It is called Kamayan sa Dike, a lovely little restaurant run by a family. They serve local dishes which are intended to be eaten with one’s bare hands--no forks and spoons. Their food is good at a reasonable price I’d say. Individual meals cost less than a hundred.  I ordered the tapang Taal and ensalada and I was quite satisfied. I would recommend it.

After lunch, tried to check out the place and locate the heritage houses. I ended up in the church again without a glimpse of the houses whose pictures I saw on the net. Anyway, since it was too hot, I thought it would be a nice time to just attend the church service so sat at the back. It was after a while when I realized that it was a funeral service I was attending. What the heck. I will just finish it. The deceased seemed to be a well loved person. There were a bunch of his buddies in uniforms marked Balayan Offroad Club so he must be a member of that.  May God rest his soul.

The service took maybe around an hour. After everyone was gone I went around looking for a staff to ask permission if I could go up the bell tower. I couldn’t get hold of one. All of them are busy preparing for the next service which was a wedding. They seemed to be on a strict timetable. There were guys trying to roll out the red carpet while some were assisting with the flowers and the lace décor. When I finally got to talk to one, he informed me that the belfry was closed. They do not allow people to go up there anymore.

I was honestly disappointed but what else can I do. Walked out of the church and was just in time to see the bride get off the bridal car.

I tried to continue my quest for the heritage houses which was in vain. They do not have much of those or if there are they are not within walking distance from the church. The thing is I did not feel like going much farther. The heat was intense. I just hopped in another pedicab and went to the bay walk instead. I killed time, just watching the kids attempt to fly their kites despite the stillness of the winds. By four thirty, I decided to go home.

Balayan was a different experience.  I kind of expected more but what it reminded me instead is that life ends at some point so we have to seize each day. Live. Love. Maybe get married. Or just do nothing… just sit by the baywalk and contemplate. Just like the futile attempts of those kids to fly their kites, we just have to keep trying and just keep going. Do not give up.