The day I got turned back from the Zambian border

One summer day. Lilongwe, Malawi, Southeastern Africa

To see the Victoria Falls in Zambia has always been a dream for me. I have written it in my bucket list, year 2007.

Finally, I have the chance.

Filed for my vacation leave. Did my reading about the place. Made my itinerary. Another solo travel for me.

Woke up at daybreak, much earlier than my usual schedule. The bus supposedly leaves before six as it is a long journey from Lilongwe to the Lusaka. Quickly showered. Made myself a cup of coffee with the hope that I get to finish it before the taxi I reserved last night arrives in the compound to pick me up. No such luck. Didn’t have time to finish it. Edward, the taxi driver, arrived on time. So, just poured the rest of the coffee down the drain. Boarded the taxi and went to Old Town bus depot in Area 2 to catch the Kobs bus. Sadly, there was no bus to catch.  There was no trip scheduled for that day. Crap, didn’t plan that. What happened? Last time I checked that is a scheduled day for the bus to travel to Lusaka.

Ok, what are the Implications…no Victoria Falls trip for me? Not happening! There has got to be a plan B. Hopped back into the taxi.. Edward suggested going to the Mchinji depot—take the minibus that goes straight to the border- Chipata- and then get another bus to Lusaka.

Hmmm, seems to me like a plan!

Off to the Mchinji depot.

When we arrived at the place, the minibus is almost full. Asked the driver if it goes straight to the border. He assured me that it does. A lady, seated in front of me turned back to look at  me “You are with me. We are together,” she says. Further conversation reveals that she is going to Chipata in the Zambian side of the border to visit her sick mother. Good news! For me at least. It is nice to have someone who knows what to do and where to go.

At Mchinji, the driver parked the minibus. I thought it was just for the driver to drop off some passengers and pick others instead, he glanced at where we are seated and told everybody that he is not going to Chipata. Those are taxis going to Chipata from here, he says while pointing at some Toyota Corollas a few steps away from us.

Wooo! What happened here? Thought he is supposed to take us to the border. Felt cheated. Tried to reason out with the him. So frustrating but what can we do? He is the driver. Without him on the wheels, the bus wouldn’t move, would it?

The lady just told me to go with her. Things are just the way they are. It is amazing how they have high tolerance for these things. So, shared taxi it is. While waiting, some guys approached us with Zambian kwacha. Their rates sounded fair. Not much difference with the rates I saw when I last checked the internet. Got some of their Zambian kwachas but kept most of my Malawian notes. The lady told me she knew someone at the border who can also give us fair rates.

Reached the border. Got my passport stamped ready to exit Malawi. Walked the short distance to the Zambian side. Personnel inside the booth, after checking with computer, gets back at me.

Tells me, “Madam you have to go to the Zambian embassy in Lilongwe to have this stamped.” I stared at him. He goes further to explain that Filipinos cannot get their visas upon arrival at the border. Only then did I realize what he is telling me. 

 WHAT? Are you fuckin’ kidding me!

That was not what I knew and read. All Filipinos I have talked to in Malawi got their visas at the border. What changed?

 Tried to talk my way into getting my passport stamped but it was not happening. Staff told me that if I start back to Mchinji,then to Lilongwe, then I could be back by noon and then be able to enter Zambia the same day.

Information about the bus I was supposed to take displayed at the border

I was devastated. I just went out of the office and stared at the horizon, looking at the Zambian side that I might never cross.

The lady who told me we would be together, stood there. Asked me what is wrong. I told her.

She shook her head at me.

“Do not force things,” she says  “If it happens, it happens. Just do not force it!”

Very sound advice. It doesn’t make me feel any better though.

So plan C...

She's right. I should not force things but the immigration officer told me that if I head for the embassy, I could get my visa stamped and be back in the afternoon.Why not, I just have to rush to Lilongwe and back. Not difficult, ain’t it?

Went back to the Malawian immigration office.

That was when it struck me… It is Mother’s day celebration in Malawi! It is a holiday! Zambian embassy would be closed.

 No luck getting a visa. Oh well.

Travelled back to Mchinji, then to Lilongwe. Called the same taxi driver.

Not giving up, asked him to take me to the Zambian embassy. Maybe, they are still open. Fat chance. Of course, it is not open. It is a holiday!

Returned home at Area 6. My roommate was surprised to see me back.

I joked about it… That is what my Filipino passport can get me…part of the Filipino experience in a foreign land.